Serenity atop the Andes

 

Looking down on Machu Picchu.  Huayna Picchu is the peak across the valley than can also be climbed for a view

Machu Picchu turned out to be different than I imagined it would be, in so many ways. It was the one thing I was most excited about seeing...as it is for most people visiting Peru.  I did not take the time to do much research before we left for Peru, wanting instead to have a completely "in-the-moment" experience (and not plan out every day, like my type-A personality usually wants to do).

I was first struck, sadly, by how commercialized and touristy the experience is.  I'm sure it wasn't always this way, and I understand the local's need to make a buck off of us tourists.  But the town at the base of MP (called Machu Picchu town, or Aguas Calientes) gave me such a headache.  It is row after row of overpriced mediocre restaurants, stalls of the same wares to be sold, and cheap backpacker hostels.  It is set in such a gorgeous place...at the base of the Andes on a rushing river, but those things are overshadowed by the haphazardly thrown-together tourist town (it actually is an ancient town, but tourism is the new industry replacing farming).

The scene at the top of the mountain is not much better.  There is a super-expensive hotel at the top of Machu Picchu and more people selling wares.  You have to pay to use the restrooms, pay for a guide, etc.  While this is certainly not abnormal in tourist destinations (I would love to know how much I've paid to pee in the past 9 months!), it still starts to take away from the spiritual MP experience.

Once inside the gates, and around the bend, Machu Picchu spreads out before you like a green maze dotted with people in raincoats.  Our guide toured us all over the town, explaining where the commoners lived, the royalty lived, and where the farming happened.  It was supremely amazing, but I never really felt like I was in Machu Picchu.  It just didn't look like I had pictured...and there were tourists EVERYWHERE!

Not until we climbed to the top of the agriculture terraces, and escaped from the masses to a semi-secluded terrace on the side, did we look down and feel like we finally were in Machu Picchu.  Sitting and staring and feeling the energy and excitement of the space was something I will never forget.  It was humbling and awesome.  If you go, I suggest going in the off/rainy season.  I can't imagine what the crowds would be like if tourist season was in full swing!

PS, I have also heard that if you stay at the hotel at the top, or come in via the Inca Trail (3-5 day hike), you have the opportunity to be the first ones or last ones in the park for the day...and therefore have the place more or less to yourself.  Next time!

Photo Friday

Raw whole chickens being loaded in to a bicycle cart, Puno, Peru.

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Arequipa Hostels, Casa Sillar

Breakfasts in this courtyard dining room was included with our 60 S ($20) per night room!

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Sunset over Arequipa - Plaza de Armas

The Cathedral

Plaza de Armas

Misti Volcano overlooking the city

We love Arequipa!

Poncho's...the original Snuggie

hot wine!  genius!

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Rosca de Reyes

Today is Epiphany for the Christians, and let me tell you there ain't no Epiphany party like a Latin American Epiphany party!

The horns, parades, costumes and fireworks have been going strong all day. Never ones to miss out, we even sat in on the first part of an 8:00 am mass this morning at La Merced in Cusco.

The most interesting part of the celebration includes the rows of local ladies that have set up shop outside each church. They are all selling various plastic baby dolls (most a little creepy) and a wide array of outfits, accessories, and baskets for the dolls to sit in. Once your doll is properly outfitted, you bring it to church with you.(!) Young and old alike all do this, and it was quite a sight to see these dolls being carried to and from church all over town today.

setting up shop outside of La Merced

so many options! This was at 7:30 am

Baby Jesus in baskets, and an array of clothing options

I am assuming (and someone who knows more please correct me if I'm wrong) that these are meant to symbolize baby Jesus. Some celebrate Epiphany as either the day the 3 magi visited, and some celebrate it as the day Jesus was baptized.

According to Wikipedia: "Peru shares Epiphany customs with Spain and the rest of Latin America. Peruvian national lore holds that Francisco Pizarro was the first to call Lima"Ciudad de los Reyes" (City of the Kings) because the date of the Epiphany coincided with the day he and his two companions searched for, and found, an ideal location for a new capital. Even more popular in Peru than gift giving is the custom of the "Bajada de Reyes" when parties are held in honor of the taking down of family and public nativity scenes, and carefully putting them away until the next year."

Later today, we found ourselves in another city, Puno, on the banks of Lake Titicaca.  The Rosca de Reyes celebrations were going strong there too!  There was dancing in the streets, and an extremely long line to get in to the church.

The line to get in to the church

Do you see that?  There was even a man selling cotton candy!

Have I said how much I love Latin America?!

Street Scenes from Around Cuzco

shoe shine in Plaza del Regocijo

Plaza del Regocijo.  The rainbow flag flying above the Municipal building on the rights is the flag of the Inca Nation

street repairs

taking the Alpaca for a walk

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Oropesa, "Land of the bread"

Patrick with the pan grande

We drove through this tiny town en route to Tipon today. Oropesa is about 30 minutes from Cuzco and famous for its bread, which most all of the villagers participate in the baking of in their 300-year-old ovens.

When our car slowed down on the side of the main street, a flock of bread-sellers surrounded the windows. As you can see from the picture, we held out for the biggest loaf. This monster was lunch for 5 people, and was light & fluffy with raisins sprinkled in.

5 Fun Facts About Peru

Ethan taking it all in at Machu Picchu

1.  Peru has the longest left wave in the world (for surfing). 

2.  Francisco Pizarro, the Spanish conquistador, founded Lima. Lima was the home of the Spanish inquisition for two centuries.

3.  Lima is home to the largest Chinatown in South America.

4.  Machu Picchu remained hidden from the world for more than four centuries, until American Hiram Bingham discovered it in 1911.

5.  Lima is the second largest capital city in the world located in a desert, after Cairo, Egypt. (how random that we have visited both cities in the last 6 months)

The Lima coastline

Lima is one of few shorefront capitals worldwide, and is actually situated in a desert. It sure makes for awesome sunsets!

Patrick over the Pacific Ocean

The city of Lima

cantilevered restaurant

The window wall behind the toilet in the restaurant bano!

Sunset over Peru's capital city, 12/27/10.